Definitely pretentious. Who would pay for such crap?

You should see the other courses which are served with this $200 a person meal. One of them is just an apple taffy bubble, filled with helium. They tell you to bite the bubble, inhale the gas, and talk to your tablemates. May as well sound ridiculous, while acting ridiculous, right?
Even though this dessert is served on a silicone tablecloth, I still feel sorry for the cleaning staff. That doesn't look easy to clean up.